FIELD CARE
Skinning Large Game for Shoulder Mounts
A.) With a sharp knife, slit the hide circling the body behind the shoulder at approximately the midway point of the rib cage behind the front legs.
B.) Slit the skin around the legs just above the knees. An additional slit will be needed from the back of the leg and joining the body cut behind the legs. ​
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C.) Peel the skin forward up to the ears and jaw exposing the head/neck junction. Cut into the neck approximately three inches down from this junction. Circle the neck, cutting down to the spinal column. After this cut is complete, grasp the antler bases, and twist the head off the neck. This should allow the hide to be rolled up and put in a freezer until transported to the taxidermist.
These cuts should allow ample hide for the taxidermist to work with in mounting. Remember, the taxidermist can cut off excess hide, but can't add what he doesn't have. ​
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When field dressing a trophy to be mounted, don't cut into the brisket (chest) or neck area. ​
If blood gets on the hide to be mounted, wash it off with snow or water as soon as possible. Avoid dragging the deer out of the woods with a rope. Place it on a sled, a rickshaw, or a four-wheeler. The rope, rocks, or a broken branch from a deadfall can easily damage the fur or puncture the hide. If you do need to drag it our with a rope, attach the rope to the base of the antlers and drag your trophy carefully.
SMALL MAMMALS
Animals, coyote sized or smaller, should not be skinned by the hunter unless you an experienced skinner. Do NOT gut the animal. Small mammals, especially carnivores, will spoil quickly because of their thin hide and bacteria. If you cannot take the small game animal immediately to a taxidermist, as soon as the carcass cools completely, put it in a plastic bag remove as much air from the bag and freeze it. With rabies in many areas of the country, take every safety measure necessary when handling your game by using gloves and washing your hands to protect yourself for a future hunt.
BIRDS
When hunting, do not hang your birds by their neck if you want to have them mounted. Do not gut the bird. Freezing a bird is perfectly fine if you do it properly. Rinse any blood from the feathers with water. Take the bird and hand groom the feathers to where they lay natural and flat. Take the birds head and tuck it under one wing. Put the bird into a plastic bag for freezing, larger Ziplock freezer bags will work for medium size ducks and smaller, being careful not to damage the feathers, including the tail. If the bird's tail feathers do not fit in the bag, do not bend them. GET A BIGGER BAG!! For larger birds use a trash bag. Make sure the feathers lay proper when in the bag. Force all the air out of the bag and place into the freezer until you can get to the taxidermist
FISH
If you cannot take your fish immediately to a taxidermist, wrap it in a very wet towel and put it in a plastic bag, making sure all the fins are flat against the fish's body (to prevent breakage) and freeze it. DO NOT gut your fish. A fish frozen in this manner can safely be kept in the freezer for months. A fish will lose its coloration shortly after being caught. A good color photograph immediately after the catch may enable the taxidermist to duplicate the natural color tones of the fish, taking pictures of distinctive marks on the fish will help us bring that fish back to life.
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NOTES & TIPS
When bringing in your animals to the taxidermy shop all animals must be properly tagged and be accompanied with proper and valid licenses of the hunter that took the animal. There will be no Exceptions with this rule.
Know the laws about possessing birds in your state. Certain birds can not be in your possession and should not be brought to the taxidermy shop like Songbirds, Eagles, Hawks and Owls Etc. Special License and permits are needed for this type of taxidermy and are mostly given to only schools, museums, Etc. we are not at this time able to receive these types of birds.
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